Today, my desk is covered by a huge Margiela bag full of treasures I have bought in Milano and also brought back from Paris.  I have been wearing, collecting and showing Margiela since the beginning.  When Details magazine, started by visionaries Annie Flanders and Ronnie Cooke did a story on Margiela with photographs by Bill Cunningham in March of 89, I was right there. Now in partnership with H&M, Margiela is re-presenting some iconic revival pieces. Luckily I was able to shop  also  the first day in Paris before going to Paris Photo and the Jeu de Paume.

A good beginning to a very interesting week of events and ideas .

Foundation Cartier always has new exhibitions that mark a difference in the contemporary landscape and this week they did not disappoint. The Foundation hosts the first European exhibition of Chinese artist Yue Minjuni paintings.

Disturbing and disarming, Yue is not well known here.  These enigmatically laughing characters (like this 1997 oil painting from a private collection) are very provoking.


For the occasion of the exhibition of Yue Minjuni’s show, Foundation Cartier also published a wonderful commemorative coloring book, an idea that seems to be taking hold in the art world.  Started in 2010 by the Foundation with Takeshi Kitano, it is an interesting new medium for some artists like Yue and Maurizio Cattelan who also published one for the Guggenheim’s retrospective of his work last year in New York.

Here Yue’s cover.


For years the Paris Photo theme for viewing the exhibition has been country by country, but this year they have presented a new viewing idea.

David Lynch has been invited to create a tour, an original journey through the galleries. He has chosen from the 800 photographs hanging, those which inspire him.

The choices are marked out in the exhibition and will be published in a book by Steidl.  Now 99 photographs reveal another aspect of Lynch’s aesthetic universe and it is an exciting way to see the show.

Here his quote published in the Steidl  book.

For nearly 30 years, the Foundation Cartier has promoted public awareness of contemporary art and worked especially hard to broaden appreciation for mediums like photography, video and design.  It was this idea in 2007 that created the retrospective exhibition of filmaker David Lynch.  Works from the late ’60s through to the present – paintings, photographs, notes, sketches from his childhood.

So much to be inspired by and admire

in the wonderful Steidl book that was published then.


This week I missed this amazing dress from Azzedine Alaia at auction. This early work, a real piece of multiple chiffon panels held by leather straps. Just gorgeous.

I hope some museum got it and they will let Azzedine know where it is.

It is like a lost child, you simply want to know they are safe.

This week, during Paris Photo, a stop to the Offprint ‘Zine Fair at Ecole des Beaux Arts is de rigueur. A great project by Yannick Bouillis for independent publishers, Offprint is a major venue to catch up on emerging practices in the art publishing world.

Catalogues, artist books, photo books,newspapers, self and independent publishing are all here.  Bouillis believes that publishers can support emerging artists with greater flexibility than art spaces can do. To see all the great independent work where images, graphics and words collide is stimulating. Good to know that these books are now finding their ways to bookstores and online sales.



Since childhood, cutting, gluing, and making my own little books was (and is!) a favorite pastime.  Micro publishing  should be encouraged, not only for children’s talent, it is such a beautiful way of expression and communication for ideas of all kinds.  It is also a gentle way to begin to collect art

and something I have done for years.

Like these great limited editions made by ART LIFE , since 1981″communication for the creative mind”, all pages hand made and  hand signed!


Finally, after many changes and remaking, we are sending to the printers the history of the Galleria Carla Sozzani. It grew from a story about our first 22 years to a full catalogue raisonne of all the exhibitions we have hosted since opening in 1990.

 It was, in the end, made with love and dedication. And each artist we have had the honor to know is presented here again with pleasure.


Perhaps because the Gallery had hosted an exhibition in 2000 and I knew his  portfolio, the new works of Alvarez Bravo drew me like a magnet to the Jeu de Paume.

  A wonder. Here one of his most famous  pictures, 1939.


Posted on: Sunday, November 18th, 2012

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